Ghazni

Ghazni lies on a broad, high plateau in east-central Afghanistan, astride the main highway between Kabul and Kandahar. Its neighbours include Wardak to the north, Logar, Paktia and Paktika to the east, Zabul to the south, and Uruzgan and Daykundi to the west. Most of the province is above 2,000 metres, with open plains in the east and south and rugged, mountainous districts in the west. The province is best known for its capital, Ghazni, which in the 11th century was the seat of the Ghaznavid empire and one of the leading cities of the Islamic world. Its minarets, tombs and citadel are the main draw for visitors. Beyond the city, the province is largely agricultural, with wheat fields, orchards and grazing land watered by karez channels and mountain streams. Ghazni is divided into many districts. The eastern and southern ones, such as Andar, Deh Yak, Qarabagh and Muqur, lie along or near the highway; the western ones, including Jaghori, Malistan and Nawur, are higher and more remote. In the south, the shallow salt lake of Ab-e Istada is an important site for migratory waterbirds. For travellers, the province is above all a place to see the monuments of medieval Ghazni and the wide landscapes of the high plateau.

The Ghazni region has been settled since ancient times. Near the capital, the remains of the Buddhist monastery of Tepe Sardar, excavated in the 20th century, show that the area was an important religious centre in the first millennium CE. In the late 10th century Ghazni became the base of the Ghaznavid dynasty. Under Sultan Mahmud, who ruled from 998 to 1030, the Ghaznavids built an empire stretching from eastern Iran to northern India, and their court drew scholars and poets, among them al-Biruni; the poet Sanai lived and wrote in Ghazni in the following century. In the mid-12th century the city was sacked by the Ghurids, and in the 13th century the region suffered again during the Mongol invasions. In later centuries Ghazni lay on the road between Kabul and Kandahar and passed between regional powers, including the Timurids, the Mughals and the Durrani state. In 1839, during the First Anglo-Afghan War, British forces stormed its fortress. In recent decades the province has seen long periods of conflict.

Pashto and Dari are both widely spoken, and many people use both. The province is home to Pashtun, Hazara and Tajik communities, among others, and each district has its own customs, dialects and local institutions. Most people are Sunni Muslims, and there are large Shia communities, mainly in the western districts. Ghazni has a long literary and religious tradition, and shrines of poets, scholars and saints in and around the capital are visited by pilgrims from across the province. In the Pashtun districts the attan circle dance is performed at weddings and celebrations; in the Hazara districts dambura music is popular. Jaghori in particular is known for its schools and its strong emphasis on education. Nowruz is marked with family outings, and the two Eids are the main festivals. Football, cricket and volleyball are widely played, and wrestling and other traditional sports appear at local gatherings.

Ghazni is a high, open country of plains, low ridges and mountains. The east and south are largely flat or rolling plateau between about 2,000 and 2,500 metres, crossed by the Kabul–Kandahar highway, while the western districts rise into the mountains of the central highlands, with deep valleys and high pastures. The Ghazni River flows south across the plateau to Ab-e Istada, a shallow, salty lake in the south of the province. The lake and its marshes are an important stop for migratory birds and have long been known for flamingos, which have bred there in wetter years. Water is precious on the plateau. Farmers rely on snowmelt streams, wells and karez, underground channels that carry water from the foothills to the fields. Wheat, barley and fodder are the main crops, with orchards of fruit and nut trees in the irrigated valleys and flocks of sheep and goats grazing the hills.

Ghazni's food is that of the high plateau: hearty, simple and built on bread, meat and dairy. Wheat bread from the tandoor is eaten with every meal, and shorwa, a broth of mutton and vegetables, is a staple. Qabuli palaw is cooked for guests, usually with lamb, carrots and raisins. Many households prepare landi, mutton that is salted and dried in late autumn to last through the winter, and cook it with rice or in soups. Qurut, dried yoghurt, is used in dishes such as kichri qurut and in sauces for vegetables and dumplings. In the Hazara districts, dairy dishes and breads made with oil or butter are important in the cold months. The province's orchards and dry farms supply seasonal fruit and nuts to the bazaars, and kebab houses line the highway through the main towns.

Ghazni is best known for the postin, a long coat made of sheepskin with the fleece inside and the outer leather decorated with silk embroidery. Postin making has been associated with Ghazni for generations, and embroidered sheepskin waistcoats and jackets are made alongside the full-length coats. Embroidery is also widespread at home, on caps, dresses, cushion covers and prayer mats. In the western districts, families weave kilims, rugs and woollen cloth, and some villages press felt for floor coverings. In the bazaars, these crafts are sold alongside everyday goods: woollen shawls, metal cooking pots, household items and goods brought along the highway from Kabul and Kandahar.

Ghazni's altitude gives it cold winters and warm, dry summers. From December to February temperatures often fall well below freezing, snow is common, and the western districts can be cut off. Spring, from late March to June, brings green fields, mild days and Nowruz celebrations, and is a good time to visit the monuments around the capital. Summer days in July and August can be hot in the sun, though nights are cool and the air is dry. September and October are among the best months, with clear skies, harvest activity and comfortable temperatures for walking around the sites. For the birdlife of Ab-e Istada, the spring and autumn migration seasons are the most rewarding, although the roads to the south of the province are rough.

Ghazni lies on the Kabul–Kandahar highway. From Kabul the road runs south-west through Maidan Shahr and Saydabad in Wardak, about 150 km and usually two and a half to three hours to the provincial capital. Continuing south, the highway passes Muqur and runs on through Qalat in Zabul to Kandahar, roughly 340 km further. A road leads east from the capital towards Gardez in Paktia, and roads run south-east into Paktika. Roads to the western districts, such as Jaghori, Malistan and Nawur, branch off the highway and climb into the mountains; they are rougher and slower, and some passes are affected by snow in winter. Road conditions and local circumstances change, so travellers should check current conditions before setting out.

Most visitors stay in Ghazni city, where hotels and guesthouses of modest standard are the main choice. Options are limited compared with Kabul, and many visitors make a long day trip from Kabul instead. Elsewhere, the district centres have only basic accommodation, often simple rooms above shops or restaurants. In villages, guests are usually hosted by families or in community guest rooms, in keeping with local traditions of hospitality, rather than in commercial lodgings. Roadside restaurants along the highway sometimes offer rooms or floor space for drivers and travellers who need to break a long journey.

Shared taxis and minibuses are the main way around the province. They run frequently along the highway between Ghazni, Kabul and the southern districts, and less often to the western and mountain districts, leaving from stands in the capital when full. Hiring a private car with a driver is the easiest way to visit several places in a day, and four-wheel-drive vehicles are useful on rural roads, especially in winter and during the spring thaw. In rural areas motorcycles are widely used, and donkeys still carry goods and fodder in some mountain villages, where people also walk long distances between settlements and fields.