Nili

Nili is the capital of Daykundi Province, set in a high valley in the mountains of central Afghanistan. Before Daykundi became a province in 2004 it was a small settlement, and almost everything in the town, from the government offices to the main bazaar, has been built since then. The town stretches along its valley, with a central bazaar of shops, small restaurants and workshops, government buildings, schools and a hospital, and houses climbing the slopes on either side. Around it, terraced fields and almond orchards fill the valley floor, and bare mountains rise steeply above. Nili is the main entry point to Daykundi and the base for travel to its districts. It is not a place of monuments, but it is a busy centre of highland life, with clear mountain air and views of the surrounding ridges. For a visitor, it offers a good first introduction to the Hazarajat and to the rhythm of life in the central mountains, where the seasons still decide when people travel, plant and trade.

Nili's history as a town is short. For generations it was a farming settlement in one of the valleys of what was then northern Uruzgan, with scattered houses, fields and orchards. When Daykundi was made a province in 2004, Nili was chosen as its capital, and the town has grown rapidly since. New roads, government buildings, schools and a provincial hospital were built, and traders from the districts and neighbouring provinces opened shops in the bazaar. Growth has brought mobile phone coverage, more reliable power and better road connections with Kabul and Bamyan, while much of the life of the surrounding valleys, based on farming and herding, continues much as before.

Nili is a Dari-speaking town, and many of its people have family in the surrounding villages. Mosques and takyakhana halls serve the community, and the commemorations of Muharram are an important time of gathering in the town. Nowruz is the main celebration of the year, marked with visits to relatives, new clothes and special foods, and families welcome the spring with outings into the valley when the weather allows. The Eid holidays fill the bazaar with shoppers. Music on the dambura is heard at weddings and gatherings, and football and volleyball matches draw young players and spectators to the open ground at the edge of town.

Nili lies in a narrow mountain valley, with fields and orchards along its stream and steep slopes rising on every side. The almond trees around the town blossom in spring, and in summer the valley is green with wheat, potatoes and fruit trees. Snow covers the surrounding mountains for much of the year, and the clear air gives long views of the ridges. From the slopes above the town, the pattern of terraced fields, irrigation channels and village houses that is typical of Daykundi can be seen laid out below. Winters are long and cold, and the valley can be snowbound for weeks at a time.

Nili's bazaar has small restaurants serving rice, kebabs, shorwa and qorma stews with fresh bread, as well as tea houses where travellers rest and eat. Bakeries produce naan throughout the day. Almonds from the surrounding orchards are sold everywhere, alongside dried apricots, mulberries and walnuts. Dairy products from the villages, including yoghurt and butter, are on sale in the bazaar, and potatoes from the valley are a staple of home cooking. Tea, green or black, is served with almonds, raisins and sweets to every guest, and during Nowruz homes prepare festive pastries and dishes for visitors.

Nili's bazaar is mainly a place for everyday goods: cloth, clothing, household items, tools, solar equipment and food. Among them, visitors can find woollen goods from the surrounding villages, such as barak cloth, kilims and knitted socks and gloves, especially as winter approaches. Embroidered caps and bags made by local women are also sold in some shops. Bags of almonds, sold by weight, are the most typical thing to take away, and dried apricots and mulberries are bought in quantity before the winter.

Nili's high altitude gives it cool summers and long, cold winters. From about November to March snow and ice make travel difficult, and the town can be cut off by road for periods. May and June bring green fields and mild days and are good months to visit, though late snow is possible on the passes. July to September are warm and settled, and the almond harvest in late summer is a busy time in the bazaar. October is cool and clear before the first snows arrive.

Nili is linked by road with Kabul and Bamyan, with Ghazni province to the east and with Tarinkot in Uruzgan to the south. From Kabul the journey is roughly 450 km and generally takes a long day or more, depending heavily on the route, the season and the state of the passes. Shared vehicles to Kabul and other provinces leave Nili early in the morning, and it is usual to arrange a seat the day before. Travel times vary widely, so it is sensible to allow a spare day at either end of the journey. Road conditions and local circumstances change, so travellers should check current conditions before setting out.

Nili has a small number of guesthouses and simple hotels, mostly in or near the bazaar. Rooms are basic, with heating from stoves in the cold months and electricity that may depend on solar panels or generators. Many visitors come for work and are accommodated by the organisations they visit, so independent travellers should arrange a room in advance where possible. Hospitality in the area is strong, and visitors with local contacts are often invited to stay with a family.

Nili is small enough to walk around, though the town is spread along its valley and the slopes are steep. Motorbikes are the most common private transport, and a few taxis and rickshaws operate along the main road. Shared four-wheel-drive vehicles and minibuses to the districts leave from the bazaar, usually early in the morning. Hiring a vehicle with a driver is the practical way to visit nearby valleys, and in the villages beyond the road people still use donkeys and horses for carrying goods.