Parun

Parun is the capital of Nuristan province. It is a small administrative centre in the Parun valley, the upper part of the Pech river system, set high in the mountains of the Hindu Kush at well over 2,000 metres. Rather than a city in the usual sense, it is a cluster of government buildings, a small bazaar and nearby villages strung along the valley floor. The Parun valley is home to the speakers of Prasun, one of the Nuristani languages, and its villages are built of timber and stone in the traditional style of the region, with houses rising in tiers up the slopes. Fields and meadows line the river, and forest and high pasture climb towards the peaks on either side. As the seat of the provincial administration, Parun hosts the offices that serve Nuristan's scattered districts, and officials, traders and residents of the valley come here on business. Because of its height and its position at the head of a long valley, it is one of the most remote provincial capitals in Afghanistan, and in winter it can be isolated by snow. For the few travellers who reach it, Parun offers mountain scenery and a glimpse of village life in one of the country's most distinctive regions.

The Parun valley, known in older accounts as Prasun or Presun, held a special place in the region before the 1890s. Reports by 19th-century travellers describe it as an important religious centre of the pre-Islamic faith of Kafiristan, with temples and carved images of the gods that drew worshippers from other valleys. After Amir Abdur Rahman Khan brought the region under Kabul's rule in 1895 and 1896, the people of the valley, like the rest of Nuristan, converted to Islam, and the old temples disappeared. Carved figures from the region were taken to Kabul, and some of the surviving pieces are now in museum collections. Parun's role as a provincial capital is comparatively recent, and government offices and services have been developed in the valley over the past few decades as the province's institutions have taken shape.

The people of the Parun valley speak Prasun, a Nuristani language with its own distinctive sounds and vocabulary, quite different from the languages of the neighbouring valleys. Many people also speak Pashto or Dari, which are used in dealings with officials and with visitors from outside. Life follows the rhythms of mountain farming. Families work fields of maize and wheat along the valley floor, and in summer many take their goats and cattle up to the high pastures. Households are close-knit, kinship ties are strong, and elders play a central role in settling community matters. The mosque is at the centre of each village, and Eid is the main celebration of the year. Traditional houses with carved wooden doors, pillars and beams show the woodworking skills for which Nuristan is known, and guests are welcomed with food and tea.

Parun lies on the floor of a high mountain valley, with a river running through meadows and fields and steep slopes rising on both sides. The lower slopes carry forests of cedar, pine and oak, and above the tree line lie open pastures and rocky ridges that keep their snow for much of the year. The valley holds the headwaters of the Pech River, which flows south from here through Nuristan to join the Kunar River at Asadabad. Streams from side valleys and snowfields feed the river and the irrigation channels that water the village fields. Wildlife of the high country, such as bears and wild goats, lives in the forests and on the ridges around the valley, and birds of prey can be seen overhead. In summer the meadows are bright with wild flowers.

Food in Parun is simple and based on what the valley produces. Bread of maize or wheat, baked on a griddle or in a clay oven, is eaten at most meals, often with butter, ghee, yoghurt or cheese made from the milk of the family's goats and cows. Walnuts, dried mulberries and honey are valued foods, kept through the long winter, and potatoes and beans are grown in the fields. Meat is reserved mainly for guests, weddings and religious holidays. Goods such as rice, sugar, tea and cooking oil are brought up the valley by road in the warmer months and stocked before winter. Small eateries in the bazaar may offer rice, beans, meat stew and naan, and tea is served with every meal.

Parun's crafts are those of the Nuristani household, made for use rather than for sale. Woodworkers carve doors, pillars, beams, chests and wooden bowls and spoons with the geometric patterns typical of the region, and the older houses of the valley carry fine examples of this work. Women spin wool and goat hair, weave blankets and cloth, and embroider clothing and caps. Baskets for carrying fodder, firewood and produce are made from local materials. There is no craft market as such. The small bazaar sells everyday supplies brought in from Asadabad and Jalalabad, and anyone hoping to buy Nuristani carving is more likely to find it in the bazaars of Asadabad, Jalalabad or Kabul.

Parun has a short summer and a long winter. The best time to visit is from June to September, when the road up the valley is usually open, the pastures are in use and the days are warm, though nights are cool even in midsummer. Late spring brings snowmelt that fills the river and can damage the road, so May and early June may involve delays. Autumn, from late September to October, can be clear and beautiful, with the forests changing colour and the harvest being brought in, but the first snows may come early at this altitude. From November to April the valley is cold and snowbound, and access can be cut for long periods. Winter travel here is not practical for most visitors.

Parun is reached by road up the Pech valley. From Jalalabad, travellers drive up the Kunar valley to Asadabad and then turn west into the Pech valley, continuing through Wama towards the head of the valley and Parun. Beyond the lower Pech the road is rough and slow, with steep sections and river crossings. The whole journey from Kabul, of roughly 350 kilometres, takes a long day or more and is often broken in Jalalabad or Asadabad. Shared pickups and four-wheel-drive vehicles serve the route, mostly in summer, and leave when full. There is no airport, and in winter the valley can be cut off by snow. Road conditions and local circumstances change, so travellers should check current conditions before setting out.

Accommodation in Parun is very limited and basic. There may be a few simple rooms in the bazaar or attached to offices, used mainly by officials and people on business, but there are no hotels in the usual sense, and running water, heating and electricity are minimal. Most visitors stay with local families, who traditionally welcome guests generously, and such arrangements are made through personal introductions before arrival. Travellers should bring warm clothing and bedding, even in summer, as nights at this altitude are cold. Many visitors spend the nights before and after the journey in Asadabad or Jalalabad, where a wider choice is available.

Parun is small, and the administrative centre and bazaar can be covered on foot. Paths lead from there along the valley floor to the surrounding villages and up to the high pastures, and walking is the normal way to get around. Pickups, four-wheel-drive vehicles and motorcycles use the valley road when it is open, carrying passengers and supplies between Parun and the lower Pech valley. Donkeys and mules carry loads on the paths, especially to villages and summer pastures beyond the reach of vehicles. Visitors who want to explore further usually hire a local driver with a four-wheel-drive vehicle or walk with a local guide.