Qalat

Qalat is the capital of Zabul Province and its largest town, standing at about 1,560 m in the valley of the Tarnak River, roughly midway between Kandahar and Ghazni. Its full historical name, Qalat-e Ghilji, means the fortress of the Ghilji, and the town is still dominated by the citadel on a hill above the plain. Modern Qalat is modest in size. The highway runs past the town, lined with shops, workshops, fuel stations and eating houses, and a compact bazaar, government offices, mosques, schools and a hospital make up the centre. Houses of mud brick and newer concrete buildings spread out across the flat ground, with fields and orchards on the edges of town. For most travellers Qalat is a stop on the long drive between Kabul and Kandahar. Those who linger can look up at the citadel, take in the views over the Tarnak plain and the surrounding hills, and see the everyday life of a small provincial capital in the Pashtun south.

Qalat's origins are old and uncertain. The fortress on the hill has been rebuilt many times, and local tradition gives it great age. Its position, commanding the road and the Tarnak valley, made it a natural stronghold on the route between Ghazni and Kandahar. During the First Anglo-Afghan War a British and Indian garrison held the fort through a siege in 1842, before the British withdrew from Afghanistan later that year. The fort then remained a government stronghold, and the modern town grew up beneath it as the administrative centre of the district and later of Zabul Province. Like the rest of the province, Qalat was affected by conflict in recent decades, and much of the town's present building is recent.

Qalat is a Pashto-speaking town, and life follows the rhythm of the prayer times, the bazaar and the seasons of the surrounding farms. Friday is the day of the main congregational prayer, and the bazaar is at its busiest in the mornings, when people come in from the villages. Men meet in tea houses and shops to talk business and local news, while family life is private and centred on the home. The two Eids bring new clothes, visits to relatives and family meals, and weddings are celebrated with drums and dancing that can go on late into the night. Cricket matches on open ground at the edge of town draw crowds of young spectators, especially in the long spring and summer evenings.

Qalat sits on a broad, open plain where the Tarnak River flows south-west towards Kandahar. Bare, brown hills rise around the valley, and the citadel's hill looks out over the pattern of fields, karez channels and orchards that depend on the river. In spring the irrigated land around the town turns green with wheat and the orchards blossom, while by late summer the plain is dry and dusty. Strong winds are common, particularly in spring and summer, and winter brings sharp frosts and occasional snow. The grazing land in the hills is used by local and nomadic herders, whose flocks are a common sight on the roads around town.

Qalat's eating houses cater mainly to travellers on the highway. Their menus are short: kebabs grilled over charcoal, chicken or lamb karahi cooked in a wide, deep pan, bowls of shorwa and plates of rice, all served with fresh naan and green tea. In the bazaar, bakers turn out naan from clay ovens throughout the day, and fruit sellers offer grapes, melons and pomegranates in season, along with almonds and raisins. Yoghurt, qurut and other dairy products come in from the surrounding villages. At home, families eat simply, with bread, dairy and vegetable dishes, and keep meat and rice for guests and celebrations.

Qalat is not known for crafts of its own. Its bazaar is practical, selling cloth, clothing, shoes, kitchenware, tools and farm supplies to people from the surrounding districts. Embroidered caps, shawls and prayer beads, many of them from Kandahar, can be found among the cloth and clothing shops, and tailors make up traditional long shirts and loose trousers to measure, often within a day or two. Visitors looking for embroidery or rugs will usually find a wider choice in Kandahar.

Qalat's altitude gives it clear, cold winters and hot summers that are a little milder than Kandahar's. Night frosts are common from November to March, and snow falls in some winters. Spring, from April to June, brings green fields and mild days, and is the most pleasant time to stop in the town. September and October are also good, with warm days, cool nights and fruit in the bazaar. July and August are hot and dusty, although the evenings bring some relief. The Eid holidays make the bazaar especially busy, while many offices close for several days.

Qalat lies on the Kabul–Kandahar highway, about 140 km north-east of Kandahar, a drive of two to three hours, and roughly 200 km south-west of Ghazni. From Kabul the journey is about 340 km and usually takes six to seven hours. Buses and shared taxis travelling between Kandahar and Kabul or Ghazni stop in the town, and there are also direct shared taxis from Kandahar. Rougher roads lead from Qalat to the district centres of Zabul. Road conditions and local circumstances change, so travellers should check current conditions before setting out.

Qalat has only a few small hotels, mostly near the highway and the bazaar. They offer simple rooms, sometimes with shared bathrooms, and are used by government visitors, traders and drivers; electricity and hot water can be irregular. The tea houses on the edge of town provide meals and, on occasion, a place to rest. Visitors with local contacts are often invited to stay in a private home. Many travellers prefer to plan their journey so that they spend the night in Kandahar or Ghazni.

Qalat is small, and the centre can be covered on foot. Zaranj rickshaws and a few taxis wait near the bazaar for longer trips around town and to the outskirts. For travel beyond the town, shared taxis to Kandahar and Ghazni leave from the highway when full, and minibuses serve some district centres. Motorbikes are widely used by local people, and pick-up trucks carry both passengers and goods to rural areas. A private car with a local driver is the most practical way to visit outlying villages.